ENAMELS AND JEWELRY: A MODERN AND CAPTIVATING COMBINATION

Enamel Jewelry: A Timeless Art

1. History of Enamel Jewelry

The art of enameling in jewelry has ancient origins, dating back at least to 1500 B.C., with the earliest traces found in Egypt and Mycenaean civilizations. Ancient goldsmiths used enamel to decorate precious metals, fusing colored glass directly onto metal surfaces. In the Byzantine era and later the medieval period, the cloisonné enameling technique (where thin metal wires create cells to be filled with enamel) became particularly popular. During Art Nouveau and Art Déco, enamel found a new expression, with artists like René Lalique incorporating it into floral and naturalistic creations. Even today, enamel is appreciated for its chromatic charm and its ability to make each piece unique.

2. Manufacturing Process

The enameling process is complex and requires great skill. It begins with preparing the metal, usually gold, silver or copper, which is shaped and carefully cleaned. The enamel, a mixture of glass powders and colored pigments, is then applied in powder or paste form. There are several techniques:

• Cloisonné: small metal wires create cells where the enamel is deposited.

• Champlevé: cavities are carved directly into the metal to be filled.

• Plique-à-jour: a translucent technique similar to stained glass.

• Brush enameling: enamel is painted directly onto the metal.

The piece is then fired in a kiln at temperatures between 700 and 900 °C. After firing, it can be polished and buffed to obtain a smooth and shiny surface.

3. Cleaning and Care of Enamel Jewelry

Enamel jewelry, although durable, requires special care to maintain color and brilliance intact:

• Gentle cleaning: use a soft dry or slightly damp cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals, alcohol or abrasive cleaners.

• Avoid impacts: enamel can chip if struck or scratched.

• Storage: store enamel jewelry separately to prevent scratching each other or against other hard objects.

• No extreme temperatures: prolonged exposure to sunlight or heat sources can alter the color of the enamel.

4. How to Recognize Quality Enamel

Identifying high-quality enamel jewelry requires some attention to detail. Here are some elements to observe:

• Color uniformity: quality enamel shows intense and even coloration without visible air bubbles, cracks or stains.

• Precision in details: in cloisonné or champlevé pieces, the edges of cells or cavities must be sharp, regular and well finished.

• Smooth surface: the enamel should be smooth without rough or uneven textures to the touch. A glossy “glassy” effect indicates good firing.

• Setting and finishes: the metal frame surrounding the enamel must be clean, free from soldering smudges, with sharp edges carefully worked.

• Manufacturer reputation: relying on known goldsmiths or recognized brands is a good indicator of quality. Handmade enamel jewelry usually bears a signature or engraved mark.

As you have read, enamels not only make every creation special but represent a true art. 

Take a look at our channel YOUTUBE, and let yourself be amazed by Labrioro's enameled collection! You can find it in our Nemorense Boutique!

- Giulia & Giuliano -